PATTERN CUTTING AND MANUFACTURE

Surprised how much I am enjoying pattern cutting, I always feel like I am learning a lot and getting a huge amount of work done. Manufacture is the same, however I do need to keep practicing. I have made my samples of seams and an invisible zip, and nearly finished making the pattern for my bodice. I am understanding more about how a pattern works and how important the simple details on the pattern pieces are.

WE FOUND LOVE...

Listening to all the hype created on the radio each day, about Rihanna tweeting suggesting there would be a surprise, it was obvious it would be this video... I had to watch it as soon as it was released. A video to a song often has the ability to create a feeling and a connection between myself and the lyrics or the story. This video definitely sold the song to me, over and over... and over again.

Firstly, the styling,  which is more british and casual. The doc martin boots and ... overall personal style is reflected. The fact this is nowhere near what I expected... less American and more relatable to the average person. Rihanna has taken the opportunity to show what I believe is her diversity between music for the club scene, the ballad with emotional ties and then an inbetween.. which is for me, 'we found love'. A song easily adapted to the club, but also with a deeper emotional meaning.

Secondly, the video itself has been recorded and edited in more of an artistic direction. I am not a film maker so I wouldn't like to comment in too much detail, however as a viewer the techniques used are of a high standard and quality which makes the shots look as they would to the naked eye.

The statement from the girl at the start of the video strikes the feeling in me which I can't quite explain. I could tell you why this is... but I couldn't explain the actual feeling whilst doing it justice.

'Its like your screaming and no one can hear, you almost feel ashamed that someone could be that important that without them you feel like nothing no one'll ever understand how much it hurts, you feel hopeless like nothing can save you and when its over and its gone you almost wish that you could have all that bad stuff back so that you could have the good.'

Rihanna Ft. Calvin Harris - We Found Love

My depiction of the story told is about the type of love between two people that is so intense it can reach any heights possible. The 'good stuff' is so amazing that it cancels out all the bad, but the bad is so bad that it kills you inside. It ends up being like a drug, all you do is want it more. And even when its gone... you would take all the 'bad stuff' back... just to feel that happiness and contentment again. To get rid of that empty feeling.

Here are some of the still shots from the video...

MY HOLIDAY BAG

After the most amazing holiday and experience in June/July I have finally washed my beach bag.. It it's now late October! And I didn't actually wash it my mum did. Either way... There were still tiny bits of the sand left hiding in the bottom. I love the idea that that sand had been in another country for a long time and somehow travelled back with me, I also have my sand rock! From the bottom of the meditarainain ocean and handed to me. The life cycle of that rock, how it got to me, who gave it to me, the memories it has and the fact I will never throw it away... To tie it all in it is covered in sand which never comes off.

COMPARATIVE SHOPPING

Value, middle market and premium, these are the three levels which stores can be categorised into, the customers, appearance and marketing of each should differ. I have chosen to compare knitwear and a shirt from each level, the brands are Tesco, Zara and Vivienne Westwood.

Tesco stores are located all over the UK, stocking all of the family necessities. Most supermarkets have developed their own clothing range and it seems that they are actually quite successful. Usually this area is somewhere between the front and middle of the shop, making sure the customer to has to walk through to get to anything else. The garments aren't merchandised to any high standard, it is simple shopping for the family. Stocking family essentials such as school uniform, work shirts and shoes.

Looking at Tesco knitwear there is an average price of £22.00 and the fabrics used tend to be a mixture of acrylic, the textures of the fabric are carpet like and rough with a simple design. The majority of the knitwear has been made in Bangladesh.
The price of a shirt is £15.00 using nylon or cotton, the shirts are fairly soft but do not have a great deal of detail. The garments are cheap and cheerful, and Tesco have realised this is what their target market want. The country of manufacture is China, these are typical countries for companies to use to create low  cost clothing.

Approaching the Nottingham Zara store the building has a classical appearance and is located centrally within the town centre. The window displays show ladies wear, childrens wear and mens wear. They are merchandised to a high standard, showing outfits replicating current trends, and it seems that time has been put into making the garments look like they are realistically being worn.

I found knitwear in different price points the cheapest was £9.99, the thin acrylic cardigan which comes in many different colours but also a jumper and polo neck. These are simple and easy for customers to choose, with a plain texture all they have to decide is which colour suits them best, they will prove popular with the public because of the price. 'Special price' knitwear is £25.99,  it is 65% acrylic, 25% nylon and 10% angora, made in Bangladesh. This knit is bigger and thicker than the rest, but still quite simple. £45.99 is the general price of the knitwear with more detailing, and a more original finish, matching up with the metalic trends this season Zara have a lot of metalic finished jumpers in bronze, silver, gold, black, red and green, these are 100% acrylic and manufactured in turkey. The 100% cashmere cardigans are simple but expensive, £59.99 due to the fibres used. 

The shirts also are similar but have different price points based around each separate brand within ladies wear, TRF shirts are around £25.99 using 100% polyester, whilst Basic shirts are around £29.99 also using polyester mix. Woman tends to be the most expensive of the three and shirts of a similar style are between £35.99 and £39.99 using 100% viscose. These are often printed and more detailed with a metallic finish or embellishment. 

The layout of the store is quite easy to understand, the merchandising is effective, mannequins are directly infront as the customer walks in or past the store. Each collection is put together to make shopping easy and allow customers to put outfits together quickly. The trends and influences are evident,  for example fetish this season is represented through high leather boots, wax effect trousers and feather sleeved jackets.
 The sales asisstants are all dressed the same and easy to recognise, and there is a fitting room on each floor. The brand aims at all areas of the family, children, women and men, therefore there are many couples, young people and older people shopping, it caters well for all target markets. In my opinion the Zara customer is classical and wants a designer style without the heavy price, as each season Zara is known for its strong replicas from the catwalk.

The Nottingham Vivienne Westwood store is located within the FH Mall, where there are a few designer shops and boutique style stores. The window displays show many bags with the large Vivienne Westwood logo on the front. With a spacious store layout and segregated into particular collections there is an immediate designer feel. There are different levels to each floor and this has a creative and distinctive appearance, even from outside the shop. I noticed that the mannequins alone look distinctive, as though they are only used for Vivienne Westwood designs, unlike other stores where most look the same. 

As soon as I entered the store I was addressed and noticed, there is a huge emphasis on one on one customer service. There is a relaxed and professional atmosphere, and the idea of staying with a customer from when they enter the store to when they leave.  The reason for this may be that they need to make more effort to make the sales as they have less custom but have much higher sales per customer. Having the personal help from a sales assistant makes the customer feel valued.

The sales assistants themselves appear to have a distinct personal style and appearance, representing the Vivienne Westwood brand with a clear interest in fashion.

The customers in store tend to be couples or people shopping alone, perhaps buying gifts or shopping for a particular item.

WATER

Water calms me, I'm drawn to places with lakes, rivers. I am happy when I am surrounded by water. The ocean amazes me, how powerful and how large it is, and its simply natural.

THE CONTROVERSY BEHIND THE COMPANY - THE DEBATE

GAP are a well established American company, therefore you would imagine that finding an argument against them would be quite difficult?

 After thoroughly researching the company there have been numerous factories found working for the brand with workers being ill treated. Some have been treated like slaves and claim to have never been paid even the minimum wage, those who do get paid are expected to live on £69 a week, and this is at the most.

Besides all of this the brands advertisments don't tend to make an impact, personally I can't recall any magazine, television, billboard advertisement at all. When it came to looking for the actual advertisement online and finding that near enough all of them look the same I still wasn't excited. The clothing all appears to be very basic and overpriced for a simple GAP hoody at £39.99 I find it hard to understand why anyone would pay that price for that item. Since the company was established in 1969 you would imagine that the product would have developed, the company work ethics would have improved and the target markets would have expanded.

Some people must be shopping there in order to keep the business going. Personally I am not aware of anyone at any age who has ever shopped in this store, the clothing is boring and almost the same each season, they don't cater for student which is also a huge market, therefore I would suggest they are missing out on profit due to the in ability to try something different.

FAST FASHION

'As our appetite for fashion/clothes and particular cheap clothes, increases, we're fueling a trend for disposable fashion, something to be worn once or twice and thrown away. With trends chasing every 4-6 weeks.'

ANITA RODDICK - TAKE IT PERSONALLY

GLOBALISATION

Globalisation means that materials and labour can be purchased in different parts of the world at very low costs, this has large affect on society. It is about the growth on a global scale with mass consumption and mass production. This seems to be spreading because people want to make a profit so those companies see the benefits others are having and want the same.

There are extremes of globalisation, from expensive advertisements using celebrities to extreme poverty in many places around the world, with child labour being one of the major issues.

Creating product cheaply, is something that the world seems to be obsessed by. Companies can employ workers from around the world who will work for minimal wages to ensure that clothing can be made at the lowest costs. These clothes can then be sold cheaper and the companies can still make a large profit. Often children with no choice are used to produce clothing, they have been found working in dangerous conditions and often working overtime without pay. Growing cotton also means the fabric can be produced cheaply and quickly which again means fast production and cheap prices.

We are the source of the problem. The shopper doesn't tend to think of the way the garment has been made, we don't look at the country of manufacture or consider those who could have been paid minimally to produce it. We buy from companies who have been found to have people working illegally and under horrific conditions. This is because as a society we seem greedier than ever, we all want as much as we can get for the least money possible. We are easily manipulated by advertisements and convinced into buying things we don't necessarily need with sales, offers and discounts all over cities. For globalisation to happen it needs us, the shoppers.

FETISH

This seasons AW'11 fetish trend...handcuffs!

CAD

During CAD I am developing general skills within photoshop and illustrator, I have never used either of these programmes before so I am finding it quite difficult to get used to. I am sure that with more practice I will get better and more confident.

SOPHIE CALLE

TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF

She uses her life to influence her work and this is what ensures the work she does is original. I visited the Whitechapel Gallery in London a few years ago to see the exhibition and every so often it comes back to me and influences my work. The exhibition connected with me in a way which I didn't expect, I remember every aspect of it and every feeling it created inside of me, to the point I was near to tears.

Sophie Calle received an e-mail from her partner which ended their relationship. The email was strange, and confusing, stating that he still loved her but they were not to be together any more. Ending the e-mail with 'take care of yourself' she decided to do just that, and she used all of her confusion to inspire her next work. She sent the email to women dependent on their careers and asked them to describe and analyse what they read in their own way. There were recordings of singers, actors, a parrot and then the letters sent back to her. I remember one had the letter printed, she had shot the word love each time. Another was an interpretation from a child which showed the very obvious confusion that he says he loves her but he is leaving her.

In an interview Sophie Calle states 'the project had replaced the man.'

'he knows how I take care of myself he knows what my method is'

HOLLY FULTON SS'12

I discovered designer Holly Fulton a few years ago and was inspired by her simple cut designs with strong architectural and art deco influences, she is never scared to use bold colour, her clothing, accessorise and jewellery are all very distinctive. 

This SS'12 collection shows inspiration from the glamor of the 60s poolside style.

MONCLER GAMME ROUGE

I have never heard of Moncler Gamme Rouge before. The elegance, confidence, use of colour, print and structure. Paper cherry blossoms and bubbles fall from above, smoke leaked along the runway as the models presented the striking designs. Giambattista Valli created three different realms, divided by ethnicities and the styles of garments. Beginning the journey with the smoked runway, red and purple garments with elegant fringing. Continuing we are introduced to the neon yellow, in a softer more gentle world where bubbles fall from above. Finally the showers of confetti fall as the models walk in the floral embellished pure white designs.

PRINTING

My final week of print...and yes I have completed my set of samples. I have a selection of 13, there were a few too many nice ones to windle down to 6/8. I am happy with my work providing the three weeks given, the transfer press disperse dye method of printing has widened my knowledge and ideas, I would like to create my own fabric print and develop my design into a garment/collection in the future. I love sketchbook work, it is where I feel comfortable and I am therefore very happy that the samples reflect my sketchbook.

CREATING LUCK

Richard Wiseman suggests that we who maximise our opportunities and expect good fortune are creating luck for ourselves. Turning bad luck into good luck is easy for those who consider themselves lucky, this means their lives tend to follow a pattern of success. After carrying out research into what makes the lucky person Richard Wiseman developed the theory that lucky people are open to meeting new people and experiences, they listen to their intuition and expect good fortune.

In the competitive industry of fashion maximising opportunities is important, it could be meeting a certain person that gives the direction and opportunity of a new path.

This theory reminds me of 'The Secret' - the idea that thinking and visualising the positives works like a magnet, therefore these things are drawn towards you, because you believe. Working in the opposite way, expecting the negative brings the negatives to life.

MY UNIQUE SELLING POINT

A boutique style store, selling one off hand made garments... this would be my dream. Alongside this I would love to work within more non wearable conceptual fashion and have my work exhibited, I love to work with fine art and make the connection between fashion. I also would like to create my own magazine and hold shows of  my new collections each season. I want to travel, either with work or for the inspiration for work, other cultures captivate me, both as a designer and on a more personal level. Placement year may be an ideal opportunity for me to do this. I develop new ideas of things I would like to do all the time... its good to have a rough plan.

 This year is the start of my career and I am completely motivated to do what it takes to ensure I am happy in my job for the rest of my life. I will strive to be another successful woman with the world today, strong independent women inspire me and make me want to work hard. To achieve my full potential I need to do many things, however something to concentrate on is pattern cutting as I know it can be complex. Developing these skills will ensure I can create conceptual designs to a higher standard as well as wearable designs.

Its difficult to find something interesting about yourself, I never really sit and think what is interesting about me?! Today I shared with people that I don't know that well how much I like text. I have sat in London and Paris Galleries and been absolutely amazed by the way artists and designers have used text to express such strong emotions. I feel relaxed by writing, I write anything from to do lists, my feelings, poetry, to letters I have given to people and letters I have adressed to people but never given them. I have thrown letters away and I have kept some. I find myself drawn in to quotes and inspired by even just words. I see words written and they strike a certain feeing in me. I've been this way for a while, I realise a lot of people write in the world although I feel like I have so much to use and can't wait to tick off on my to do list for my dreams. Writing a book, I must have a book, perhaps more of a diary published one day. Within the past year I haven't wrote an essay, everything has been very personal however I want to use this blog to improve my writing skills, more on the journalistic side.

GARETH PUGH SS'12

Confident strong garments with defined structures. Gareth Pugh presents us with amazing attention to detail in his SS'12 collection, reworking his signature monochrome colour palette and continuing to push boundaries with mesh concealing the naked bodies beneath. 

Absolutely inspired by Ruth Hogbens work after seeing her fashion film at the SHOWstudio fashion revolution exhibition I have continually watched her collaborations with fashion designers. The way she is able to capture the ideas and concepts behind a collection as well as the movement of the garments on the body is original and inspirational.

Fashion Film by Ruth Hogben

MOVEMENT FROM THE PAST

This 2009 project on movement, uses shreds of muslin fabric to create fringing... I worked with the ideas of mass, and how fringing is used in many cases to emphasise the movements of the body, such as dancing costumes. Two years on, in 2011 I am using similar shreds and printing on their surface,  learning new methods of printing such as disperse dye, and combining this with screen printing. This dress would look amazing with the textures of fabric and dye I am currently using.

Designer - Sarah Louise Woodward

Model - Jessica Smith

Photographer - Joe Dixey

BRITISH BIRD

I have always loved working in sketchbooks... here are some images from my first University project titled 'British bird'. I have been drawing anything related to birds and collecting feathers...

I generally use old books from charity shops as sketchbooks, this is because I like the effect from the text behind, also because they are a cheap alternative but mostly because the past behind the book intrigues me. I get to search through old books, with no idea where they came from or of their past, I often find notes written inside them, reminding me of how huge but how small the world actually is.

'THE BEAUTY YOU LIKE IS PRECISELY THAT WHICH ESCAPES YOU.' - ISSEY MIYAKE

VIKTOR AND ROLF SS'12

Every show. Every collection. Vikor and Rolf never fail to amaze me.

Combining beautiful fabrics with original design is something Viktor and Rolf succeed in every season. Without fail, they deliver again. Their shows manage to captivate me, not only because of the garments but also because of the thought process behind the presentation.

The pop duo Bridgette perform as the models walk out from under their extra long skirts, with a childlike twist the collection shows girly and fun designs with a doll influence. The styling and shoes work perfectly. Volumised hair in a neat tie, girly eyelashes and shoes complimenting the garments with ruffles jewels and ties. Undoubtably another successful collection.

EXPANDING THE BODY

Rebecca Horn is interested in the connection between the body and space. I researched her work just over a year ago and her ideas influenced my drawing. For me, there is a relation between her work and fashion, she captures the movement of the body in her drawings. I was reminded of this when visiting Liverpool Tate where I saw the pencil mask exhibited for the second time. It took me back to questioning what fashion can be and how perhaps something not immediately fashion can still be influential.
During visual studies I have been working with mark making and this is exactly what Rebecca Horn is doing. The idea of adapting the body in order to have less control over her work is exciting and refreshing... we don't always have to work with the obvious.

Rebecca Horn - Finger gloves

Rebecca Horn - Pencil mask